City of food

After a three leg train journey and about 20 hours arrived into the sunny chaos of Naples. A bit bewildered getting off the metro into the streets, with people everywhere, cars all over the place and a shambles of narrow streets. Had a bit of difficulty finding the hostel, with a car coming towards me in the skinny street I didn't think I had the right street, but I did! Headed out in the evening for a walk, the hostel was right near one of the main shopping streets. Headed down the via Toleado to the port at the bottom, and had a gorgeous view across the bay with the mountains in the background. On the way back found a huge fortified castle on the waterfront. At 8pm on a Friday the street where still full of people, I think they have their rush hour at little later than ours!

The following day I was off on the train to Pompeii for the day. Just 40 minutes south down the coast on the local train. The shear size of Pomepii was staggering! Through the ruins you could see the remains of various temples, the foro or meeting place, basilica, connected with many lanes of house remains. The baths were still covered and had fresco paintings on the walls. There was a complete amphitheatre for performances and plays, and behind that the quarters of the gladiators. At the farthest end of the city was the area. Impressive in size, the seats had become overgrown, but the structure was still intact. It was amazing the little things, like a full laundry, canals for drainage, water wells, and a central park. After my legs had had enough, I grabbed a refreshing gelato and headed back to Naples. On the way back to the hostel, stopped in to see the Duomo, a massive and ornate church in the old town. Then wandered through the old town streets crowded with tourists and stalls. Meet some nice Swedish girls in my hostel and headed out with them for dinner. Found a local pizzeria, which had so many choices it was overwhelming! Went for a easy option the capricorsia, Noe you may think that pizza is just pizza, but pizza in Naples is something else! So fresh, with a soft and doughy crust. mmmm! Delicious!

The following day I checked out the city, wandered through the shambles of the old town. Indulged in some local pastries - one with I think ricotta cheese - amazing. And a Baba, a sponge like cake drenched in syrup. Not quite what I thought it was but still yummy! Then headed back towards the waterfront, where on a Saturday it was packed with both locals and tourists. The locals sunbathing on the rocks by the sea, and frolicking about in their speedo's on boats. Did a loop back up the fashion street which at about 3pm in the afternoon was closed as the shops are between 2 and 4pm and then open again till about 8pm. The day was scorching hot, so I can understand why it would be nice to have a wee siesta in the afternoon. Found a pizza bar open and grabbed a panini on my way home, with some gorgeous prochetto. By the time got up the street it was time to treat myself to some gelato for the day :) Chilled out at the hostel for the evening, the owner had cooked up a massive dish of pasta and feed us some orthentic Naplese pasta. Delicious!

Then Monday it was off to my next destination - Florence, just a short train ride by comparison of 2 hours. There is nowhere quite like Naples I have been so far, a city with a whole energy of it's own, somehow through the chaos the Italians thrive.

Venice

just to prove I was there (if only for an hour!)

Napoli

Castle

Arena Pompeii

Basilica

fresco in one of the houses

ampitheatre

Baths

Dome cathedral

old town streets

yummy pastry

pizza!

piazza gesu nuovo

Budapest

 Budapest

Arrived into Budapest Monday morning to a beautiful sunny day. Got the rather knackered team to the hostel, the comfort of 6 to a cabin had not agreed with all members of our party! haha. Then went for breakfast, priority number one! The local cafe downstairs made the most amazing Hungarian scrambled eggs, a variation with tomato, bacon, onion and cheese, just what the doctor ordered After everyone was clean and feed when headed out to explore the city. We wandered down the Pest side of the Danube river, and down to their incredible parliament buildings. Very ornate white stone with spires and domes, it looked more like a palace than a parliament. We crossed the river and caught the cute funicular up the hill to castle hill. A lovely little walled town which contains the national gallery, the m cathedral and a very ornate walled section. Admired the view across the city with a relaxing wine. Wandered down the hill and across the bridge to St Stephan's Cathedral, a beautiful ornate church, covered with fresco's and alters in marble. We stopped at a local restaurant near hostel and I had some very yummy goulash - which turns out is a Hungarian dish.

The next day we had a relaxed start and headed towards the baths. We went to Szechenyi baths, which are within the city park, and have the largest outdoor area. Had a relaxing soak for a few hours in their beautiful old courtyard. The pools also have smaller baths of varying temperatures and sauna. Took a little bit to get the hang of the changing rooms which had two doors but no locks! turns out there is a fold of wood you turn over when the door are closed which blocks them opening - very clever actually. After our soak we were thirsty and starving, so found some Thai for dinner, before Jules had to head off and catch his plane back to London.

Wednesday morning we went in search of the oldest bakery on the castle hill. Found this tiny little place, that didn't look like much and didn't even sell real coffee! But tried some strudel which was amazing. (Ange later informed me that it was not actually the bakery we were looking for we they went back the day after I left!). Then went in search of coffee in one of the other old coffee houses - Gerbeaud. A rather flashy place, with amazing looking desserts. Ange and I shared a Hungarian sponge dessert, which was humongous, and enjoyed some morning sunshine in the square. Afterwards we walked down to the market hall, a massive old steel structure filled with fresh food, and touristy nick nacks. Sampled a cream cheese and meat cream roll. The cheese was a little bit intense! While Ange and Paul enjoyed a duck leg. Bit of a regressive day for food! Then headed across another bridge and up the rather steep hill to the Citadel with the lady of Liberty atop, it had gorgeous views across the city and beyond. Then headed down to town for some more Hungarian for dinner. On our way home walked along the river front, which looked beautiful with all the bridges and landmarks lit up.

Thursday was my last day in Budapest, we walked across to Margaret island, which is a big green space, filled with runners, children and people who just didn't seam to go to work! Then headed to catch my train onto the next destination - Vienna, before getting and overnight train down to Venice.

Really enjoyed Budapest, a much larger city, but some amazing food, and lovely culture.

yummy eggs

overlooking parliament

Funicular

view from the top

the team on the go

St Stephans

Szechenyi Baths

Dessert for breakfast anyone?

cookies at the market

Overlooking Budapest from liberty hill

Buda at night

Old town feel

Arrived into Krakow on Thursday, and after getting a bit lost in the station/mall, located some much needed burger king and then navigated my way across the town square to our hostel. The town centre was beautiful at night, all lit, busy with people, and surprisingly warm! The others arrived not long after me.

First day was a full on one, up early and off in the van on our tour of Auschwitz and Berkinhau. They played us a film on the camps during the drive, which was very graphic and rather upsetting. Not a particularly pleasant way to start a morning, but gave some background information. We had a very good guide who was obviously passionate about educating people about the horrors of war, in hope that we might learn from it and prevent it occurring again. The site of Auschwitz looked surprisingly normal, with the sun shining and warm it didn't seam fitting. She took us through some of the buildings of the camp - all original, with exhibits on the camp history. The final building was left in its original state and comprised of the prison and torture cells, including the standing and suffocation rooms. Uncomprehendable. We then walked through to the other side where the camp commander's house was located outside of the camp, and the first gas chamber. Walking through there was airy, I couldn't stay long, just the knowledge of what had occurred there sent a shiver up my spine.
Then we went the 5 minute drive up the road to the other camp Auschwitz two or Berkinhau. A much larger camp it housed 95,000 people at its peak just before liberation. Half of the camp was burned when the Germans evacuated to cover the evidence. None of the three gas chambers are standing now either. One was destroyed by a Jewish camp member who's job it was to collect the bodies from the chambers for cremation, the others by the Germans before they left. Walking into the female sleeping quarters was what i envisioned when I think of the word Auschwitz - the long line of wooden bunks stacked three high and crammed with people. Another very moving place. The overall look of the camp was staggering, with the familiar larger building at the entrance with the tower under which the train lines came right into the camp so prisioners could then be sorted. The size was mind boggling. It was a great privilege to be able to see what these people went through, definitaly gives you some perspective on life. We finished of the day in a slightly lighter style by trying some local cuisine in the town square, and i must say potato pancakes with mushroom sauce is delicious!

Day two was much more relaxed, we wandered over to the castle which was about 10mins from our hostel. Very picturesque it sits over looking the river. A beautiful walled castle, it was like a medieval village inside, with an incredibly ornate church, and even a dragon! hehe. Then it was time for some more sampling of the local food for lunch - perogi ( dumpling style ) with meat, cabbage or onion and cheese - very tasty, though probably no the best for the old arteries. We attempted to avoid the downpour by heading out to the Wieliczka Salt Mines. A three hour tour took us 320m deep, and along numerous passages and caverns. An absoulutely incredible site. No longer a working mine, it has many carvings and sculptures, three chapels  and underground lakes. You can even get married in the large church complete with chandeliers and a banquet hall! We only went down to the second level, but there were a further 7 below us and over 2000 caverns! So then it was back to the square to fill our starving bellies after all that walking!

Sunday we ambled along the waterfront and found the Krakow marathon going, so cheered on a few locals. It was really warm, so required a drinks break mid morning, at a cafe by the river. We had the most amazing lime, mint lemonade slushy - mmm! Continued on our stroll into the Jewish quarter, a very old area, scattered with beautiful churches and synagogue's. Had lunch in a nice outdoor cafe, and over indulged in pizza! Then headed back to the centre along the green belt, popped into the church on the square - gorgeously colourful with blue ceilings with stars on them. Had a bit more time to kill before our evening train, so Ange took us to a chocolate house, which had the most amazing menu. Enjoyed and over indulgent raspberry chocolate pudding. Then it was farewell to lovely Krakow and onto our next train overnight to Budapest.  

Gate to Auschwitz 

Berkinhau Entrance

Krakow town square

A relaxing evening cocktail anyone? 

Perogi = yum!

Potato pancakes

From the castle overlooking the river

Down down into the mine...

in one of the caverns

Nome carving

mmm salty

Add caption

King statue

Nice spot for a break

Chocolate galore!

Berlin

Arrived into Berlin on my overnight train very bright and early at 4am! Killed a bit of time at the station before finding my way to the hostel to re-group. Then headed in to check out the city. My hostel was in the north so took myself down towards Alexanderplatz, which is home to a horrible looking T.V tower built by the communists, then down towards museum island which houses a number of the big museums in amazing buildings. Admired the spectacular Dom cathedral, then walked across the bridge to the Humboldt University introduced by one of the monarchs, which has had many famous pupils and proffers, including Einstein. Then continued on down their main street the 'Unter den Linden' to the end where the Brandenburg Gate stands, an impressive structure complete with Chariot atop. Through the gate and into the Tiergarten, with the famous Reichstag their Parliament buildings, which was left empty during the communist rein and only recently been in active use again as a Parliament building. Slightly south of the gate stands a whole block dedicated to the Holocaust Memorial - or 'The memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe'. A very thought provoking place, hundreds of slate blocks stand on the uneven site, and as the designer left no explanation, people are left to ponder the meanings behind this memorial. The information centre below the memorial is filled with individual's stories, letters and experiences, a rather intense place. After all my walking and lack of sleep it was back to the hostel with me, and time for an early night!

Tuesday I joined one of my roommates on a walking tour, our guide was really good and he took us to all of the main sights with detailed and passionate descriptions. One of these was an unremarkable car park, which he told us was the site of Hitler's bunker, which the communists ended up destroying after the war. It was so well made that the first attempt with dynamite failed to bring it down, so they had to drill holes in the steel to weaken the structure before blowing it up. We also went to a section of the wall still standing with the old Stazi building behind, and checkpoint charile which was the border between east Berlin and the American sector. Afterwards I took my self out east along the river to the East Side Gallery, where there is another large section of the wall that is preserved. It runs over a kilometer and has been repainted as a memorial with some very cool murals.


The following  day I continued my history lesson by going to the Berlin History Museum. It was filled with a wealth of information going back to before 100BC right up to the future, a bit overwhelming if you try and read it all! Then headed down and explored a bit more around checkpoint charlie, before going for a stroll in the Tiergarten and finding the Victory Column, which sits directly behind the Brandenburg gate at the end of the park, very paris-esque. A lovely way to finish up my time in Berlin.

Thursday was a full day on the train from Berlin to Krakow, rather a long day, especially seeing as my train arrived an hour and a half late! But was all good, got myself to the hostel through the gorgeously lit square and meet the others who arrived shortly after from their flight. Fun times to follow!

Me and the Dom

Little church

Magnificent Dom Cathedral

Humbololt University, and the square of burning books

Brandenburg Tor

Reingstag

Jewish memorial

Checkpoint charlie

Old piece of wall and Stazi building behind

Art on East Side Gallery

Victory Column

In the Teirgarten

Fancy train station