Marseille

Tuesday morning I got the local train 2 1/2 hours down the coast to Marseille, another city which sits on the coast of southern France. However, a very different city to Nice. Much larger Marseille centers around the old port, and is known for being voted the city of culture in France. After dropping my stuff off at the hostel, I set out for a hike up the hill behind to the well known church - Notre Dame de la Garde. Perched right atop the summit, the church is a beacon and can be easily seen from the city. After puffing up the really steep hill to get there it was nice to just sit on its steps and enjoy the view while catching my breath! The church has an almost fortified wall surrounding it with a 360 degree view of the city, a very nice place to begin. Inside the church has ornate paintings and beautiful stained glass. On my way down I headed out to the corner of the port where two fortresses stand at the opening. Along the way managed to stumble across Marseille's oldest bakery. Next to the fortress is the chateau set in front of a lovely grassy park. Had a rest and relaxed in the park while looking back at the city though the hundreds of sail masts. Not realizing it was a public holiday, there were lots of families out enjoying the good weather too.

The following day i walked in to check out the rest of the city. The hostel was a great location, just on the vieux-port. A short walk across the way took me to the old port town set on a slight hill, with more skinny cobbled streets. I found the charity building which was built to house orphans, but is now the archaeological museum. A beautiful roman looking building with three stories of column archways in a courtyard. And in the middle of the courtyard a beautiful stone domed building. Further down the hill is the city's cathedral, a massive church sitting right next to the port and the other fortress. After some lunch I headed into the centre of the city with all its shops, and jumped on the tram up to Longchamp palace. Which was unfortunately under renovations, so was a bit of a disappointment, as I didn't get to see much. On my way back down to the city found another big church - Englasis de Reformers. A beautiful gothic style church, with bright and colourful stain glass windows. After enjoying some peace and quiet inside the church, I headed out to enjoy the sunshine before having a relaxing evening at the hostel.

On Thursday I missioned out to the the beach just outside of Marseille known as the Calanques. About an hour on the bus took me to the university where the walking track starts, then an hour of walking through some amazing sheer white cliffs, and down a steep scrambling path, I arrived at a beautiful cove. The pebbly little beaches stretched out into incredibly clear blue water. After a picnic lunch and a much needed drink, it was time for a refreshing dip in the gorgeous water. Not the warmest I'll admit, but it was just right to cool off after an energetic walk in the 27 degree heat. Relaxed in the cove for the afternoon before treking back to town and reality.

The following day my adventure continued on to Barcelona. Marseille was a bit of a surprise treat, as there were many parts to it I hadn't realised before I arrived, but the Calanques were defiantly worth the trek. 

Notre Dame de la Garde

My many steps!

Inside the gold of the Notre Dame de la Garde

Overlooking Marseille

Islands out to sea

Shhh !

Boats, boats, and more boats!

The start of my walk

Down in one of the bays

The pebbly beach I stopped at for a swim

The walk back! 

Overlooking the cliffs

Old town street

Cathedral on the port

Englasis de Reformers

Charity building

Marseille port

A little bit of luxury

Arrived into Nice and meet up with Todd for a bit of a luxury weekend. Our hotel was right on the waterfront and we had not one, but two small balcony's overlooking the bay - stunning. After a break, headed out for a wander down the water front. The pebbly beach swings in a sweeping arch and is full of restaurants with sun loungers out the front to tempt those with enough cash. Down the east end of the bay is the old town, a pedestrian section, with narrow streets filled with all sorts of delicacy's, from bakery goodness, to fancy biscuit shops and restaurants galore. After a wander we settled down for some dinner, but didn't quite win with the menu, ordered beef tatare, which I soon found out was a raw beef mince patty. Not really my thing! Might need the English menu next time!


Saturday was beautiful and blue, so Todd and I went exploring up the hill to the Parc de la Chateau. Up a number of winding steps, from the top was a great view over the city, and further around across the next bay. Further up the park were the remains of the 13th century castle which used to stand there - hence the name. Enjoyed a yummy ice cream as we headed our way down. Dropped into the supermarket and had a delicious picnic lunch on our balcony with baguettes, cheese, and salami - yum! After a break from our mornings exercise, walked in the other direction down the bay, before going to find some dinner. Scored a deal on a three course meal with aubergine and cheese to start, salmon and crepes to finish. Much better than the previous night! 


Sunday the weather turned rubbish with rain, so went in search of a few shops to investigate, but soon found that not a lot is open on a Sunday! So made for a pretty quiet and relaxing day, and indulged Todd in watching a football game. In the evening the weather cleared up and we found some yummy dinner in the old town.
Monday said au reviour to Todd again, and went to enjoy some of the sunshine which was blazing. Chilled out on the waterfront, and nosyed in the shops, before moving to my hostel and back to the life of a traveler.


Really enjoyed my little break from being a full on tourist, Nice is very much a resorty town, but very nice for a relaxing seaside weekend. 

the lovely bay

Todd and I at the top of the park

Overlooking the east side of Nice

Cute little old town

In the old castle archway

Breakfast!

Chilling on the waterfront

Mussels for dinner - yes please!

Our fancy hotel

The beach

Medievial City

My last day in Tuscany I headed out for a day trip to Siena, about an hour and a half south by train. The old town is set up on the hill, and moves with the landscape, with cobbled streets rolling up and down. It was like stepping back in time. The main streets wind you along heading towards the central piazza. In this case rather than your usual piazza Siena has the Piazza de Campo, a circular angled area (much like a velodrome) which is used for its famous horse race the Palio. The back drop of the piazza is an impressive castle.

But the main draw card to Siena is its magnificent cathedral. As you walk up the winding street to the entrance you only catch a glimpse of its stone work, and then the courtyard moves round to its front wall. The front facade is white and pinky stone, carved into statues and patterns and with a circular stained glass window in the front. Inside the church was simply breathtaking. Not like any other cathedral I'd been in the wall's were stripped white and black, with adorning paintings, and stone carvings in the floor. I could have sat there for hours and still been amazed. The full ticket also got me entrance to the baptistery below, where more beautiful frescos covered the walls in bright colours. And the crypt, with some much older frescos. Through the museum you had entry to a panorama view, up through some spiral stairs, to the top of the wall. You could see out to the cathedral in front, over the Piazza del Campo, across the red roofs of the city, and out into the green rolling hills of the Tuscan landscape. Absolutely beautiful.

After the cathedral it was time to find some lunch. Enjoyed some pasta and wine while overlooking the Campo, and saw a wedding party having their photos done. Then walked to another large church the Chisa San Dominico, very tall in its structure, but simple inside with gorgeous windows looking back. Then across the other side of the town to the Chisa St Francesco, another impressively tall building, this one with alcoves at the either side of the alter with little chapels. Found some gelato to refresh me before walking out of the older part of town to the fortress, now a park along its rampant's. It has gorgeous views back over the old town, with the massive churches visible over the roof tops. And then it was time to head home again. Arrived into Florence just as the sun was setting to have a gorgeous view across the bridges.

Absolutely loved Florence and Siena, some of my favourites so far. Very picturesque with its quaint streets and amazing old architecture. Will have to put it on my to do list for a road trip, one day...

Duomo Siena

Baptistery 

Inside the Duomo

Overlooking the town

Piazza de Campo

Looking up to the tower

Yummy pasta lunch

Looking out to the Duomo

Beautiful Florence sunset

Florence

Arrived into Florence Monday afternoon and had a short walk to the hostel, across one of the bridges with my first glimpse of the famous Ponte Vecchio. Once I had dumped my bags, first priority was food! Walked down to one of the squares and found some yummy spinach pastry and sat and in the Piazza San Spirito to enjoy some people watching. Then it was off to explore the city. Found the Palazzo Pitti just a few blocks down -a sprawling brick palace of the Medici family. Then down the busy street with pedestrians filling out onto the street towards the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence and the only one to survive the bombing in the war. All across it are jewellery and gold shops all side side, an expensive place to go gift shopping that's for sure! Across the bridge to the left was the Uffizi Gallery, wandered past it and the rather large que, and up to the Piazza della Signore. A large and impressive square which is home to another of the big palaces - the Vecchio, looking more like a castle than a palace. I continued on up through all the little old streets to the Piazza del Duomo. The first glimpse of this massive structure is quite amazing, and even caused me to give an audible 'ooo'. The Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (or commonly known as the duomo) stands tall with its green, white and terracotta stones, ornate carvings and paintings adorn its exterior. Quite spectacular.

As it turns out Monday was also the first of May and known as 'white night' and there were celebrations across the city, with free concerts, and museum entry in the evenings up to midnight. Sweet! So after a break i ventured out to see the Uffizi for a unique free evening experience. The line wasn't too bad, waited about 45 minutes before getting in (this is good for European standards!). The gallery houses a number of famous paintings including the 'Birth of Venus' and my favourite 'Spring' both by Botichilli. Not being an expert myself it was a gorgeous museum, the main corridors were lined with statues. And at the end of the gallery a terrace takes you out into the night, where there was an amazing view across the piazza, with the palace and duomo dome shinning behind. Magical. On my way home, the streets where filled with people, stages set up with music pumping, it was as big as new year! And the party went well on into the morning as I could hear from my hostel, and consequently got little sleep that first night!

Day two was relaxed as the weather turned to rain, I jumped on a hop on hop off bus, for a tour of the city. Did a lap to get my bearings, then hopped off to see the Duomo cathedral. A little bit disappointing inside, it is quite bare, apart from some amazing stain glass windows and a beautifully painted dome. Then walked down to the Santa Croe church, another impressive structure, before getting the bus up the hill overlooking the city. Unfortunately just as it started raining, so not the best day for photos! While waiting for the next bus I went exploring up the hill in the torrential rain. And came across a beautiful church settled into the hill, with a tiered balcony and a gorgeous view over the city. Inside the church was beautiful, with a very interesting layout. The alter had two levels, with steps up to a second chapel and another underneath. I later found out it was called the San Miniato al monte and a favourite of Michelangelo's. Back on the bus again, we headed to the outskirts of Florence to a near by village called Fisole. Set up on the hill to the other side of Florence it was the resort retreat of the wealthy Florentines. After my bus tour I was well knacked so headed back to the hostel for a relaxing night.

The next day I was feeling a bit under the weather, so had a lazy lye in. Then went to the north end of the old town to the San Marco church. The cathedral was beautiful with massive portraits across the walls and paintings on the walls themselves. Next door was the old monastery which has since been turned into a museum. The entrance took you through into a lovely courtyard with a covered walk way held by pillars. In the alcoves of each arch were beautiful fresco painting's. The museum had some amazing old religious paintings going back to the 12 and 13th century. Upstairs in the monks old quarters, each cell had a painting depicting to some religious setting, and also a library with amazing old texts with elaborate corner letters. It was a very peaceful place and less well known so not crammed with tourists which made for a nice change. Afterwards I walked down to the central markets filled with fresh local produce. Had some pesto ravioli for lunch, then wandered back through town and stumbled across another impressive church - the Orsammichele. A very ornate church filled with paintings and gilded gold artwork. Then as it was such a nice day I thought i'd have a second go at getting some panorama views of the city. So this time walked my self up the winding path in the garden to the lookout. And was rewarded with a beautiful clear blue sky over the city. After taking some snaps, wandered my way down and enjoyed some gelato as I headed towards the Pitti Palace. I got a ticket to see the Boboli gardens which are attached to the rear of the palace. Through the massive palace courtyard, the gardens were set over very steep terrain and terrace after terrace up the hill gave another amazing view. Explored the gardens and then enjoyed soaking up some of the less hot afternoon sun. In the evening treated myself to dinner out at a local place in San Spirito. After all the carbohydrates I'd been having, enjoyed a yummy chicken salad and some interesting ricotta cheese and chocolate dessert.

Pitti Palace

On Ponte Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio

Dom Cathedral

sunset with the bridge

Palace Vecchio

looking out to the dome

May day madness

Santa Croe

overlooking the arno river

Florence

Bobili Gardens

Cyprus grove

City of food

After a three leg train journey and about 20 hours arrived into the sunny chaos of Naples. A bit bewildered getting off the metro into the streets, with people everywhere, cars all over the place and a shambles of narrow streets. Had a bit of difficulty finding the hostel, with a car coming towards me in the skinny street I didn't think I had the right street, but I did! Headed out in the evening for a walk, the hostel was right near one of the main shopping streets. Headed down the via Toleado to the port at the bottom, and had a gorgeous view across the bay with the mountains in the background. On the way back found a huge fortified castle on the waterfront. At 8pm on a Friday the street where still full of people, I think they have their rush hour at little later than ours!

The following day I was off on the train to Pompeii for the day. Just 40 minutes south down the coast on the local train. The shear size of Pomepii was staggering! Through the ruins you could see the remains of various temples, the foro or meeting place, basilica, connected with many lanes of house remains. The baths were still covered and had fresco paintings on the walls. There was a complete amphitheatre for performances and plays, and behind that the quarters of the gladiators. At the farthest end of the city was the area. Impressive in size, the seats had become overgrown, but the structure was still intact. It was amazing the little things, like a full laundry, canals for drainage, water wells, and a central park. After my legs had had enough, I grabbed a refreshing gelato and headed back to Naples. On the way back to the hostel, stopped in to see the Duomo, a massive and ornate church in the old town. Then wandered through the old town streets crowded with tourists and stalls. Meet some nice Swedish girls in my hostel and headed out with them for dinner. Found a local pizzeria, which had so many choices it was overwhelming! Went for a easy option the capricorsia, Noe you may think that pizza is just pizza, but pizza in Naples is something else! So fresh, with a soft and doughy crust. mmmm! Delicious!

The following day I checked out the city, wandered through the shambles of the old town. Indulged in some local pastries - one with I think ricotta cheese - amazing. And a Baba, a sponge like cake drenched in syrup. Not quite what I thought it was but still yummy! Then headed back towards the waterfront, where on a Saturday it was packed with both locals and tourists. The locals sunbathing on the rocks by the sea, and frolicking about in their speedo's on boats. Did a loop back up the fashion street which at about 3pm in the afternoon was closed as the shops are between 2 and 4pm and then open again till about 8pm. The day was scorching hot, so I can understand why it would be nice to have a wee siesta in the afternoon. Found a pizza bar open and grabbed a panini on my way home, with some gorgeous prochetto. By the time got up the street it was time to treat myself to some gelato for the day :) Chilled out at the hostel for the evening, the owner had cooked up a massive dish of pasta and feed us some orthentic Naplese pasta. Delicious!

Then Monday it was off to my next destination - Florence, just a short train ride by comparison of 2 hours. There is nowhere quite like Naples I have been so far, a city with a whole energy of it's own, somehow through the chaos the Italians thrive.

Venice

just to prove I was there (if only for an hour!)

Napoli

Castle

Arena Pompeii

Basilica

fresco in one of the houses

ampitheatre

Baths

Dome cathedral

old town streets

yummy pastry

pizza!

piazza gesu nuovo